Has Your Pump Stopped?
Every now and then, a pump will just stop working! It may even randomly turn off and back on. But why?
Many pumps have a check valve installed right above them. This keeps the water from the pipe and bio fall from gushing back down into the skimmer when the pump is turned off.
Reasons Why a Pump Might Stop
1. Lack of Regular Cleanup of the Basket—Net or Bristles—AND the Filter Pad
Sometimes, a pump stops because water can’t get past the debris basket. The skimmer or net has water, but the pump area is dry.
The debris basket/net/bristles and filter pad should be checked every week, even if they don’t need to be emptied. They can clog, essentially damming the water so it doesn’t reach the pump. Don’t let this cause your pump to stop working.
2. Lack of Filter Pad or Degrading Filter Pad
This time of year, muck builds up fast if you haven’t cleaned the skimmer regularly.”
Perhaps you don’t have a filter pad in the skimmer, or maybe yours is falling apart or doesn’t fit well. There are also some filter pads that degrade faster than others. We use one that is very coarse and has a longer lifespan.
Actually pulling the pump out and getting a wet/dry vac down to the very bottom of the skimmer to remove all the built-up muck is sometimes needed.
Cleaning the skimmer filter pad on a regular basis helps protect the pump.
3. Clogged Pump Cage
Even if you clean the basket often, debris can still clog the pump cage.
You’ve got to pull up the pump and check the cage. Even reaching down and feeling for gunk will help.
Your pump might need the cage to be turned to the left, and some of them have tabs that have to be unclipped to remove the casing. Now and then a small rock or piece of debris can get in there. Remove the impeller (if possible) and spin the impeller to make sure it is moving freely. Look for damage to the cylinder. It should be solid, without grooves. If it has a a groove or chinks out of it, it cannot fit snuggly and cannot do it’s job properly. It may be time for a new pump.
4. Impeller Clog
The impeller can get something stuck in it. If your pump is a solids-handling pump, it’ll pass debris right through, but if not, now and then something can get stuck.
To fix this, remove the pump to inspect it. Unplug it first! You may have to unscrew something or take off a fitting to do this. If there is a check valve, water from the pipe will come out quickly when you do this, be prepared to get wet!
Once it is out and unplugged, take off the intake area. The debris screen can be usually be removed. When you do this you should be able to remove the impeller to inspect it, depending on the pump. Most Vertical pumps don’t have this screen and you can’t get to the impeller. An aquascape pump has 4 screws that will have to be removed.
Your pump might need the cage to be turned to the left, and some of them have tabs that have to be unclipped to remove the casing. Now and then a small rock or piece of debris can get in there. Remove the impeller (if possible) and spin the impeller to make sure it is moving freely. Look for damage to the cylinder. It should be solid, without grooves. If it has a a groove or chinks out of it, it cannot fit snuggly and cannot do it’s job properly. It may be time for a new pump.
Did you know that pea gravel in a pond can get caught in a water current and end up in your pump impeller? It can! That’s one reason we like to stay away from pea gravel.
If your pump has a coupler (the black piece with the metal clamps that is still on the pipe sticking out in the skimmer in this photo) it makes it MUCH easier to get the pump out and back in.
5. Electrical Issues
Electricity is often a reason why a pump has stopped working. I advise checking the outlet it is plugged into to verify that it does in fact, have working electricity.
Sometimes electricians run a separate line for the pond which, is ideal. But sometimes they just run it from another circuit that may also have outlets in the house. If you’ve plugged in anything new that’s on the same circuit, it could overload and cause the pump to stop.
6. Snake
Here and there, we’ve seen a garter snake get wrapped up and stuck in the pump. Ick! Some people really don’t like snakes, but did you know they’re a sign of a very healthy ecosystem? They are! The darn things will eat small fish, though.
7. Yard Work
Sometimes the person running the weed whacker can nick or even slice through the cord to the pump or other pond equipment. Even nicking it can cause it to short out. Once, I sliced all the way through the cord to the digital thermometer we had in the pond.
8. Ball Valve Issues
If the pump flow is too much for your system, you might have a ball valve somewhere in the line that you can partially close off to reduce flow.
Closing the ball valve too much strains the pump. If the pump is powerful and the pipe is small, it shortens its’ life. It all depends on the pump and pipe size.
This is type filter pad we often use. This particular filter pad could be a little bit larger. Debris can get past it.
9. Check for a Vapor Lock
Now and then a pump can get an air bubble trapped in the internal space of the pump. The impeller will spin but no water will come out. To make sure this isn’t what is happening with your pump, tilt the pump with the intake area facing up. You might have to disconnect it from the pipe to do this. Keep in under water and tilt it. If there is an air bubble it should escape and work again.
10. Heat
Sometimes the heat builds up under a fake rock where the pump receiver and outlet plugs are. The heat can affect the pump received and cause it to shut off. Remove the fake rock to allow it to cool off. Drill some small holes in the fake rock to help keep it vented. (near the top of the rock!)
11. Wrong size pipe
A pump needs the correct pipe size. An undersized pipe can cause stress on the pump, causing it to fail much earlier than expected. For instance, if the pump moves 9000 gallons per hour, a 1 1/2″ pipe cannot carry that water load! Trying push the water through too small of a pipe is hard on the pump, shortening it’s lifespan.
12. Old Age
Your pump may simply be dying of natural causes and old age. Pump lifespan depends on regular maintenance, pond conditions, and the quality and brand of the pump.
We’ve seen pumps that are 20 years old and others that last 7 or 8. Sometimes, right before failing, a pump struggles to run. It may overheat and shut itself off. When it cools off, it may come on again, which explains the stopping and starting of the waterfall.
Pumps can burn out and sometimes you do need a new pump. If your pond pump stopped working, you do want to get it going as soon as you can because the longer it isn’t working, the less oxygen the fish will have and the water will start to get mucky because it isn’t being filtered or circulated. If it is hot, make sure you have an aerator running if the pump has to be off.
Trying to figure out the rest of your equipment? Walk through this pond equipment comparison.
Kristi's Tips
Some pumps are put on a timer to come on and go off at specific times but is that the best idea? Read Should I run the pump all the time?
Did you know that most pumps come with a 2- or 3-year warranty and that if you hardwire it in (cut the cord to splice it directly into the electricity), it voids that warranty? It does.
Another thing about warranty: if the pump goes dry and burns out because of it, the pump manufacturer can tell and won’t cover it under warranty.
If you buy a less expensive pump with the same GPH as a better brand pump, did you know that it usually uses more electricity? Yep. It also doesn’t end up lasting as long.
* This blog was NOT written by AI. This was written by me. I am not a professional writer, I am a pond person. Therefore, if you see a typo, please forgive me!
*No pumps were harmed in the making of this content.